Ricciarelli

Fine almond flour works and gives a smoother, more delicate cookie, while unblanched almonds with the skins on will speckle the dough and make it slightly darker. Either will hold together, since the structure comes from the whipped egg whites rather than the type of almond. If your almonds feel oily from grinding, chill them briefly before folding so the dough stays workable.

Ground almonds vary in how much oil they release, so the dough can turn soft and tacky even when you measure correctly. Chill it for 20 to 30 minutes to firm it up, and keep a bowl of powdered sugar next to you so you can coat your hands and the spoon before each portion. Rolling every piece generously in powdered sugar, as the recipe directs, is also what makes the dough manageable in the first place.

Go by the edges rather than the center: the cookies are ready when the surface is set and just lightly golden, while the middle still gives when pressed gently. They firm up considerably as they cool on the rack, so pulling them at the pale-golden stage is what keeps the interior chewy. If you wait until they look fully browned, they will be dry and crisp once cooled.

Yes - the dough can be covered and refrigerated for a day before shaping, and the resting time actually makes it easier to roll. Let it sit at room temperature for a few minutes before portioning so it is not too stiff. Do not whip the egg whites ahead separately, though, as they lose volume on standing and the cookies depend on that aeration.

Keep them in an airtight tin at room temperature, and avoid the fridge, which dries them out. Because they are almond-based and stay moist in the center, they hold their texture well over several days and many bakers find them even better after a day. Dust them with fresh powdered sugar before serving if the coating has been absorbed.